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ReefMonkey13

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Hi All, I'm strongly considering to ride a bicycle to work but am not sure where to start to look for gear. I tried to search for sites and reviews of bikes but keep getting directed to racin bikes.

Looking for some direction on choosing a good commuter bike and other associated gear.

Any direction or recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
 

Widdy

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Try searching for Hybrid Bicycles, you might yield better results. I went through this few months back when wife was shopping for a commuter/hybrid. G'luck with your search!
 

al0ha

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i ride fixed/freewheel. if you're looking to get a cheap but reliable bike, look on bikes direct. they have free shipping and all sorts of bikes.
 

guarda

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How far is your commute? If it's more than 10 miles you probably won't want a folding bike as the gears are generally smaller. You also probably don't want a mountain bike with knobby tires as your rolling resistance is greater, meaning you'll pedal harder. I personally have a mountain bike with street tires to get around the city. When I wanna go offroad i swap wheels.
 

al0ha

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How far is your commute? If it's more than 10 miles you probably won't want a folding bike as the gears are generally smaller. You also probably don't want a mountain bike with knobby tires as your rolling resistance is greater, meaning you'll pedal harder. I personally have a mountain bike with street tires to get around the city. When I wanna go offroad i swap wheels.

+1

how far is work? when i biked to school everyday back then, i took the west side hwy all the way up and for the most part it was flat plain so my single gear wasn't an issue. i was/am riding 48:18
 

ReefMonkey13

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Wow lots for great information . .

Widdy - I will check out hybrid bikes.

dacaptain78 - not sure about folding bikes but will look into those as well

Akma - i'm assuming "Cannon blades" is a brand name. Thanks for the suggestion.

al0ha - will check out bike direct

guarda - as for the distance it's not that far only a little over 3 miles each way in mostly flat surfaces and few gentle up slope climbs.
 
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I'm not one for commuting but I usually use my MTB's as much as possible just for the burn.

Folding bikes like Dahons seem to be a metro favorite.

Cannondale Bad Boys are great Hybrids but I prefer Double Suspension rigs. If you really like to ride and have some fun than you may want to consider it. When I can't find a buddy to go XC mountain biking with, I usually ride over the GWB and play my own version of "Frogger" in NYC traffic just 'cause I like to feel a rush when I ride.

As far as Road Bikes (racing bikes), they just aren't fun or practical IMO. The skinny tires with extremely high pressure (+/- 100 PSI) don't allow for an "oops" factor. So if you hit a tiny pothole or a MONSTER pothole at best you have a flat but often times you're out of a tire (if tubeless), a tube, and sometimes an expensive rim but very often time, you can get thrown from the bike.

With a DS (double suspension) MTB with approx 4" of front and rear travel, there usually is no "oops" factor. Whether you hit a monster pothole or you unexpectedly hit a 6" curb because of some driver not seeing you, the suspension absorbs the impact with ease and you might have to readjust your sunglasses but that's usually about it. Plus if you feel like getting air and see a wall or something to jump off of, it makes the ride that much more enjoyable.

If you end up using a bike for more than just a 3 mile commute than you may want to consider outfitting the rear cassette with a "granny gear" for assistance with climbing hills. If you like to feel the burn or aren't going to deal with hills then Single Speed bikes is truly where it's at but make sure you bring an extra water bottle =).

Single speeds are usually cheaper becasue they don't have gears, shifters, extra chainrings, extra gears on the rear cassette and cables and being that they don't have all those extra parts, they are usually cheaper to maintain because they don't have all that stuff to break with everyday wear.

If you like to ride hard then definitely don't go cheap because it's no fun when you're about to take a curb and your front axle comes off but on the other hand if you have to chain this thing up outside and out of site then it will most likely get stolen if it is on the higher end. I know a few people too that broke their crank or bottom brack because they pedaled too hard up a hill which is BS. (inside joke for MTB'ers....so now they're strictly Downhill bikes...lol) so cheap can sometimes suck. Most bikes in NYC that are covered in duct tape amaze me because they are usually higher end bikes that people are trying to disguise as hoopties.

Don't forget about a bike lock. I like the ones that are "shackleless". The body of the lock is basically like a "U" when open and there is only a small opening for 2 links of a chain to enter and as you spin the key, shackle "threads" thru the 2 links so now the shackle is protected by the body of the lock and the chain links (or cable loops).

Those big "masterlock U-lock" types can be seen on youtube with a tutorial as to how easy they are to break. I buy hardened machined steal chains and use one of my popped tubes to slide over it to protect the paint from being scratched by the chain. All bicycle chains are too easy to break or cut.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y8CA/?tag=reefs04-20

I like using a M.U.L.E. Camelbak. Holds lots of water and almost anything else.

Helmets... pick one that best fits your style. Most are the same as far as meeting minimum safety standards. The better ones will have full 1 year replacement warranties. My dog chewed one up and my LBS got me a new one. I was surprised but it was his recommendation. I had already passed it off as a loss in my own head. The more holes = the more ventilation (may be better in the warmer months). Less holes (BMX style)= less ventilation (may be better in cooler months)

If you really get into it then some people will outfit their pedals with baskets to slip your shoes into or on the higher end will add clipless pedals which means that you have to buy special biking shoes to click into your pedals. Both methods make it easier to climb hills because you can pull your let up which in turn pulls up the pedal because they're attached as you push down on your other pedal and vice versa so now instead of only being able to push down to propel your bike now you can pull the other pedal up maximizing efficiency. Mountain bike shoes are much more practical than road bike shoes because they are easy to walk in and are very similiar to regular shoes some are like sneakers. Many road bike shoes require the skill of walking in the reverse stilleto heels kinda sorta.

And if u want to get stupid... Check out Bob Yak & Ibex trailers. I use my Ibex for doing grocery runs.






..
 
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ReefMonkey13

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Thanks Reef Fixation for the sound guidance.

I have definitely been considering where to store the bike while at work and am looking into lock and chain systems.

I'm allotting about $1000-$1200 for the bike and upgrades. Already visited a Local Bike Shop (LBS) over the weekend.

Per the suggestions above i'm looking into the following bikes:

Cannonblade Bad Boy 9
Specialized Sirrus (Series)
Giant Seek (series)
Cannonblade Quick CX4

Will need to work on the fitting but from all that i have read that is the most important thing. I figure if I spend $800-$1000 on the bike i can user the rest of the money for the required accessories like helmets, gear, locks, tool sets, etc.
 
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I love the Bad Boy but the Higher end Carbon Fiber Quick is a nicer choice on the road because I believe it has a carbon fiber fork and carbon fiber rear triangle. What that means to you is a lot of the shock will be absorbed by the frame and not by you.

I'm a big fan of the Lefty suspension fork and I've also had Headshocks before and those are better IMO for lighter people if you like to ride hard.

I don't recommend the lower end of any premium bike brand. The most important things aside from a quality frame is the equipment that you rely on to keep you in motion.

Alvio Shimano equipment is subpar eventho it is made by shimano and the price of buying new shifters after they malfunction on you is much greater than if you just bought quality equipment off the bat.

You can save a considerable amount of money on a leftover bike from last year that is outfitted with better equipment.

You are absolutely correct; how the bike fits you is absolutely key and sometimes those little adjustments can cost more as well. Maybe you need a different seat or a different stem that caters to a shorter or longer arm reach.

I would definitely recommend going to a higher level if it's possible for you. Whatever you spend now on quality will usually last you longer. I beat the hell out of my bikes and the gears, chainrings, derrailleurs and shifters are the first things to go and they cost as much as you spent for the entire bike.

...just my 2 cents

Shimano XTR full build kit can range from $1500-2000 I think and just to be clear... you'd still have to buy the bike frame, handlebars, seatpost & seat and a few other things. I'm not suggesting that you go to that high of a trim level but definitely don't go with the lowest end that Shimano or SRAM puts out there. This factor is why it sometimes doesn't pay to buy a used bike especailly if the drivetrain needs to be replaced.

All of us that are into bikes usually learn the hard way that saving a few bucks costs us a quite a few more down the road.
 

dherrera83

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I would go for the higher end stuff if you will be making this a hobby but if its just the 3-6 mile travel you mentioned then something llike what i got would fit the bill. - IMO
 
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I just got into riding and im enjoying it so much that i am iching to upgrade... But if i do my wife will kill me since i just got the bike!!

I wanna get me a road bike... someday :shhh:

LOL... that's the reason that I say go mid-high end; because once u get a taste on a bike that is a pleasure to ride, it is really easy to want to upgrade and then the initial investment on our first bike is a huge loss because we will never recoupe that money if we need to sell it for the upgrade. Just like our fish hobby.

I'm not saying that a cheap bike can't be fun to ride but if anyone likes it, they will probably end up riding it to the point that it will need repairs. If you ride a quality bike then it is that much more enjoyable (so long as it doesn't get stolen).

It's kinda hard not to get into it when you notice that you feel better because you're getting into better shape.

It's the same as any of us who started with a nano.... most of us liked it and most of us upgraded. How much would we have saved if we just got the bigger tank. We wouldn't have lost the money on the smaller tank and all the equipment that we couldn't transfer over to the upgrade. Kinda the same thing.
 
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ReefMonkey13

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All of us that are into bikes usually learn the hard way that saving a few bucks costs us a quite a few more down the road.

This is true in any hobby . . Having said that, I'm not adverse to dropping $$ for the right equipment (god knows i do that enough with my reef), but i'm not sure how much outside of commuting i will be riding. I want something that will grow with me as I get (if at all) get more ambitious in riding. At this time, I really have no interest in going fast and competing. Off road bike rides and trails may be of some interest but i can't foresee too many opportunities to do so.

Reviewing the list i gave i figure if need be or my interest grow in cycling then I will upgrade accordingly. Just thought these would be a good base to start.

Besides, i wouldn't want to have to explain to the wife, why i spent $3K+ on a bike i hardly use.
 

dherrera83

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Besides, i wouldn't want to have to explain to the wife, why i spent $3K+ on a bike i hardly use.

Good point. That is what drove me to the bike i purchased and i think i got the perfect bike.

This is a tough decision you will need to make because you have many variables to consider like:

travel distance intended
Interest in the hobby and what is the possibility you will have time and commitment for a long term use.
How much can you afford to lose. (you have to face the fact that it might get stolen, regardless of locks)

And most importantly how you can explain the purchase to your wife without her given you the look...

Let me know what you decide and thoughts on your choice (if you wish to)
 

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