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Ok so i'm about to have a year and a half with this EMPTY tank sitting on the stand in this corner. I finally have everything i need and its all up to me to hook it up. Just trying to make sure i do it all right the first time.

So here's where you guys come in. I plan to make a little manifold coming off the return side for if and when i decide to need any reactors.

In the first picture i have the return t-ing off to the manifold and then going straight up to the tank. with this option i have more room to work around my sump and i could add another valve and make the manifold have another outlet.

In picture #2 i have the return t-ing off to the manifold then another ball valve before it gets back to the tank. I've read this to be better because you can adjust the pressure going through the manifold by closing off the valve a bit and in case of any emergency or mtc can completely close off the return side. but it just makes things a little tighter around the sump.

Before i make anything permanent i would like you pros out there to give me your opinion.

thanks in advance
 

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theMeat

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Neither

The in case of an emergency valve is not needed. A siphon break drilled into the top of the return line is fail safe , works whether you see a problem or not, and doesn't rely on power or mechanics or any kind.
If you're going to oversize return pump to accommodate the manifold feeding other equipment.... To control how much pressure/water returns to tank, instal a valve that simply returns water back into sump

Not a good idea to have all that plumbing hanging off, being supported by, the bulkhead. That is the weak point and if/when it fails that will be bad.

Line coming off pump, straight line to tank, with as many tee's as you want installed along that straight line.

On the other line/bulkhead...Take that elbow off the drain pipe coming off the tank water coming down into sump. You want that to be as straight as possible, and again, letting it hang from the bulkhead not a good idea.

When you instal a manifold onto the tank return pump it's a guess as to how much water is actually returning to tank. Better to have one pump for manifold, and separate dedicated pump for tank.

A lot to try and explain over the Internet....If you're within reasonable driving distance, would be glad to come over, help a fellow reefer, and finally help you set this up, free of charge

Oh, welcome to the site
 
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vio

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Try to avoid 90 Degr. elbows , use 2 x 45 in stand , try to avoid any ( 90 degr.) they restrict the flow, i try to feed all mechanical filters from main pump, i find better control by using MJ 1200 pumps, i forgot to put back the pump, many times, in special during the feeding, is critical for Bio-pellets , if you gone use one.
 
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ok i get the whole avoid the 90 and use two 45's but im a bit confused about the dont let it hang on the bulkhead. i do plan to have one or two straps helping hold the weight onto the stand. would that still not work
 

vio

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ok i get the whole avoid the 90 and use two 45's but im a bit confused about the dont let it hang on the bulkhead. i do plan to have one or two straps helping hold the weight onto the stand. would that still not work

Yes, in my opinion straps work well, just use some rubber around .
 

theMeat

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Yup that'll work. I'm a big fan of secure pipes to cabinet, then attach them with flexible hose to bulkhead. It makes for nice gentle bends, reduces noise, and takes all stress off bulkheads
 
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ok cool. I hope to be able to get some work done next time i finally get a day off. Thanks for the offer of free help. I really wish i knew exactly when i'd have a chance to spend a day working on the tank so that we could actually try and set that up. But until then ill keep picking you guys heads and try to get this done.

another question. i've heard of people have a gates valve on the drain side. any advice on that ?
 

theMeat

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Not a good idea on a single drain design as you have. Safely can be used on Herbie or bean animal 2 and 3 drain pipe designs
The only reason to do that on a single pipe design is to quiet it down. And if that's what you want to do a standpipe with air line tubing adjustment is a better option
Another way to keep it running quiet is to not put too much water through the drain. You should be shooting for 3-6 times the tank volume per hour going through the sump. The return pump, with head height figured in determines that.
 
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Odysi

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Try to avoid 90 Degr. elbows , use 2 x 45 in stand , try to avoid any ( 90 degr.) they restrict the flow, i try to feed all mechanical filters from main pump, i find better control by using MJ 1200 pumps, i forgot to put back the pump, many times, in special during the feeding, is critical for Bio-pellets , if you gone use one.

Hey vio I thought the same but check out this video.
https://youtu.be/h-PG4a0rU60
 

theMeat

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Interesting Odysi
There's all sorts of plumbing related specs, that have been tested, and have been around for years. When the water is pushed throu a pump it is organized by the pump, and sent out under pressure. Elbows and bends will effect a drain, which has to organize itself, with gravity it's only force. Add air going down that same pipe, as op's single pipe drain design has, and the gph gets cut nearly in half

As an example, any given size pipe can handle about 4x the gph when under 45psi as compared to gravity fed. A 1" single pipe drain can safely handle 6, maybe 700 gph. While that same 1" drain, when fully submerged, can handle 1200 easy. With air going down the same pipe the water must reorganize everytime it hits an elbow
 
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Odysi

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Yea I just thought it was an interesting test. I know every system is different which makes it difficult to have concrete standards. Just makes me wonder on how much we do is actual fact rather then here say.
 

reefiness

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yeah I just saw this video on the BRS the other day. My system is all plumbed with 2x 45s instead of 90s. But now i want to redo it with 90s because you can make the plumbing look much neater with 90s compared to 45s.
 

theMeat

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Yup, think a common misconception is bigger is better. When it comes to drain, that's mostly true. But oversizing the supply back to tank only adds weight to head and reduces flow
 
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ok... soo i guess i dont have to put in the order for 2 45's lol.. thats what has delayed me on my build. besides work. im trying to make it perfect but the more research i do you never really get a solid answer
 
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Here i am again. The new guy complicating thing but i have more questions. So my tank came already drilled. Both holes are 1 inch bulkheads but they put an adapter on the drain to have a 1.5 pvc on the top. I went and got some fittings to do the same going to the bottom side but its such a short run im wondering if it's worth it. would it actually help or am i just over thinking this ? should i or can i even open the drain bulkhead to 1.5 so i wont need the adapters ??
 

theMeat

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For a 93 gal tank one inch bulkhead is plenty. There's nothing to gain by going to 1 1/2 with the rest of the pipe since it's going through a 1" bulkhead.
Would recommend one of these. Slips right into a bulkhead without any glue needed, is flexible so getting it out of the way or sock removal easy
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18365
Actually a better idea if you glue a short piece of 1" pipe into the out side of the bulkhead, then slip that hose onto the pipe
 
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i had already ordered all the pvc and fittings that i thought i needed. so im just going to see if i could get it to work with what i have. im pretty sure i will have a lot of stuff left over. i guess ill save it for the next build. that flex line would make things a lot easier though and would've saved me a ton of money.
 
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Brand, i keep looking at your setup makes me want to drill new holes on my stand and flip my tank around so the drain goes straight down like that. everyday i change my mind and come up with more crazy ideas that push back this damn build
 

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